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Spinach with Shallots, Pine Nuts, and Golden Raisins

Classic French cooking technique dictates that spinach should be blanched before sauteing. I learned the science behind the method when I produced a DVD with Shirley Corriher called Kitchen Secrets Revealed! Fresh fruits and vegetables are made from living cells. When heated, these cells die and fall apart. All vegetables are slightly acidic, and as the cells deteriorate and continue cooking, the acids leak out and turn the chlorophyll present in green vegetables brown. Miss Shirley (see page 191) calls this “mass death and destruction.” The French technique of blanching vegetables first in a large pot of boiling water dilutes the acids as they leak out, minimizing the amount of acid in contact with chlorophyll. Steaming is another excellent cooking method because as soon as the acids are released from the vegetables they wash away in the steam, limiting the amount of damaging contact with chlorophyll. Finally, stir-frying is a quick cooking and open technique, letting those acids evaporate, and limiting the time for the chlorophyll to lose color. If you don’t want to blanch spinach (or dandelion or chard) and still have it bright green, the trick is too cook it very, very quickly over high heat.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 4 to 6

Ingredients

1/2 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup chicken stock (page 227) or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth, heated
1/2 cup pine nuts
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, chopped
2 pounds spinach, dandelion, or chard, tough stems removed
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Place the raisins in a small bowl. Pour over the heated chicken stock. Let rest to plump and rehydrate, 10 to 15 minutes.

    Step 2

    Meanwhile, place the pine nuts in a large heavy-duty skillet over medium heat. Toast, stirring frequently, until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Remove to a bowl and set aside.

    Step 3

    Heat the olive oil in the same skillet over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and cook until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Increase the heat to high, add the spinach, and stir-fry until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain the golden raisins, discarding the liquid or reserving for another use. Add the drained raisins and toasted pine nuts. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

  2. toasting nuts

    Step 4

    Toasting nuts really brings out their flavor. Toast nuts in a dry skillet over medium-high heat until fragrant, 5 to 7 minutes. Or place them on a baking sheet and toast in the oven at 350°F until brown and toasted, about 10 minutes.

Cover of Bon Appetit, Yall by Virginia Willis featuring a serving of corn souffle.
From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.
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