Roasted Wild Striped Bass

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Preheat the oven to 450°F. Remove the stalks from the fennel bulbs; reserve the bulbs for another use. Remove the feathery fronds from the stalks, and reserve for garnish. Using a sharp knife, halve the stalks lengthwise. Arrange the stalks in the bottom of a 9 × 13-inch baking dish; pour the wine over the stalks. Lay the fish fillets on top; drizzle with oil, and season with salt and pepper.

   Step 2

   Cover the pan tightly with foil. Roast until the fish is just cooked through and opaque throughout, 20 to 25 minutes. Divide the fish among serving plates, discarding the fennel stalks. Garnish with reserved fronds.

2. Buying fresh fish

   Step 3

   Steaks and fillets: These should smell fresh and have plump, moist flesh that is not discolored. Avoid any with flesh that appears dry and has sections that are separating.

3. Step 4

   Whole fish: Look for gills (just under the head) that are bright red, without any brown spots; eyes that are full and clean, not a discolored white or gray; and skin that is shiny, not dull. The flesh should be firm, and the odor should not be fishy.