Mexican

If you can't find raw unhulled pumpkin seeds, you can substitute 6 ounces of the hulled (green) ones, but the pipián (seed-thickened sauce) will be richer. Active time: 1 3/4 hr Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

Founded in 1912 in the city's historic district, Café Tacuba is a Mexico City institution. The beautiful Talavera tiles that decorate the 19th-century colonial-style building are worth a visit in and of themselves. The extensive menu offers a little something for everyone — from huevos rancheros for breakfast to roast beef for dinner. The popular buñuelos (sweet fritters) are particularly delicious.

Tlacoyos con Queso de Cabra Traditionally these rustic cakes are made with a mashed bean filling. The goat cheese called for here adds a contemporary twist.

Mole Verde While this mole is best eaten soon after it is made, to appreciate the flavor of all the fresh greens, it can be prepared ahead up to the point of blending and adding the greens. Heat varies very much according to taste, so the number of serranos is optional. Typically this mole has a thickish texture and thickens more as it stands so it may require diluting. For all dishes of this kind, the larger and more compact the chicken the better — no fryers please. And adding extra giblets for a stronger broth is not a bad idea. This mole verde is also popularly made with espinazo, the backbone of the pig, which gives it a delicious flavor. I often make the mole with country-style spareribs cut into pieces.

This classic accompaniment to grilled meats also makes a great taco filling. Grilled chiles, peppers, and onion.

Memelas are similar to chalupas and sopes. Pinching up the edges and creating tiny bumps in the centers helps keep the filling in place, which becomes important when the memelas are large.

A nice side would be polenta or mashed potatoes.

If the four-inch tortillas used at Café Iguana in Denver, Colorado, are hard to find, the standard five- to six-inch ones also work, or they can be trimmed to the smaller size.

Chiles Anchos Rellenos de Atún con Papas This is more sweet than spicy, because the chiles are softened in brown sugar and vinegar before stuffing.

A low-fat version of the Mexican soup.

Margaritas Clásicas Mexican and Key limes are slightly sweeter than Persian limes (the standard supermarket variety). They can often be found at Latin American markets or at local farmers' markets. Melissa's sells them year-round by mail; to order, call 800-588-0151 or go to melissas.com. Make these Margaritas two at a time.

(Corn Tortillas with Sweet-and-Savory Ground Pork)

This dish is an excellent accompaniment to almost any Mexican meal. The beans should be whole, perfectly tender, and swimming in a generous amount of broth.

This recipe is from Cafe Annie in Houston, TX.

Mole, a classic Mexican chili sauce, gets streamlined here. Chipotle chilies (available canned at Latin American markets and many supermarkets) add heat, while unsweetened chocolate provides subtle sweetness. Serve the stew in shallow bowls with steamed rice. Add an arugula, orange, and red onion salad and a basket of warm corn tortillas. For dessert, offer cinnamon-spiked hot chocolate and wafer cookies.